Tag Archives: alternative
Coming Up Roses
Serge Lutens is a parfumeur and creator of La Fille de Berlin. Photo: AFP UTE JUNKER SCENT NOTES Best seller Armani Privé 1001 Nights Rose d’Arabie (RRP $210) Heavy petal Jo Malone’s Cologne Intense Velvet Rose & Oud Serge Lutens doesn’t stick to the straight and narrow. It’s no surprise, therefore, that his newly released rose perfume, La Fille de Berlin, is not a floral fragrance of the type your grandmother would recognise. If the classic rose scent is sweet and soft, conjuring up images of a tightly furled rosebud covered in dew, La Fille de Berlin is grittier, almost dirty – a rose crushed underfoot. Lutens, a pacesetter in the perfume world since he launched Feminite du Bois for Shiseido in the 1990s, revels in unexpected scent combinations. La Fille de Berlin may open in a dramatic shower of crimson rose petals, but the floral notes are gradually submerged in animal undertones of amber and musk, giving a cold, slightly dirty tone. This is no delicate petal: it’s a tough perfume, one designed to be worn by men as well as women. This is not the first time Lutens has tackled rose: his self-titled collection includes two other rose-based fragrances. However, this outside-the-square floral is a sign of the times. Parfumeurs around the world are finding ways to reinvent the rose. While rose perfumes have always covered the spectrum from clear and green-tinged to spicy or even dark, today’s revamped roses use woody or oriental notes to create fragrances that appeal to a different type of customer. Both Cartier and Balenciaga have new woody roses available in store. Eau de Cartier Goutte de Rose and Balenciaga’s L’Eau Rose are both surprisingly sensual, L’Eau Rose in particular leaving a lingering mossy impression. The most in-demand double act, however, remains the combination of rose and oud, a smoky wood used in traditional Arab perfumes. Armani Privé 1001 Nights Rose d’Arabie (RRP $210), a heavy rose-oud combination, was the best-selling perfume at Harrods last year. Armani is not the only company offering the rose-oud combination. Tom Ford, By Kilian and Roja Dove all offer variations on the theme. The latest contender, however, is somewhat unexpected. Jo Malone London made its reputation with perfumes offering a true floral scent. One of its long-standing best sellers, Red Roses, uses seven types of rose to create a pure fragrance that smells like a freshly cut bouquet. Even Jo Malone , however, is experimenting with oud. The newest addition to its line-up is Cologne Intense Velvet Rose & Oud, introduced to the permanent collection this year after a limited-edition release last year. It could not be more different from Red Roses: heavy where its predecessor is light, sensuous where the other is romantic. “The damask rose takes centre stage in the rich gourmand scent of Velvet Rose & Oud, offering opulent facets of fruits, spices and honey,” says Celine Roux, global product development director, Jo Malone London. The heavy scent of the damask rose, spiked with clove, helps balance out the strong notes of oud. “The richest essence of absolute rose is needed, so that the delicate note is not overpowered by the deep woodiness that is the oud,” Roux explains. The result is a rich, resonating rose: call it heavy petal. The Australian Financial Review Continue reading
World Bank Looks at Global Carbon Pricing Systems
Posted June 3, 2013 It’s ironic considering all the attention on the struggles of the EU Emissions Trading System, but today over 40 national and 20 sub-national government jurisdictions have either implemented or are considering carbon pricing mechanisms. Global emissions trading schemes map via World Bank This wide-ranging assessment comes from no less an authority than the World Bank, which announced their findings this week in a new report “ Mapping Carbon Pricing Initiatives: Developments and Prospects. ” The Bank’s findings once again underling the growing momentum toward an interconnected global carbon market working to fight climate change and spur the transition to a global clean energy economy. Lessons Learned From EU Struggles Despite international failure to establish an international climate deal through the United Nations, the Bank sees individual carbon pricing initiatives developing faster than ever before – and learning lessons from the EU ETS . These markets are taking shape at the same time international prices on carbon are at historic lows and the prospect of coordinated international emissions reduction measures uncertain. “Even as the first generation of the carbon market stutters…it is progress at the country level that gives hope,” said Rachel Kyte , World Bank vice president for sustainable development. “Carbon pricing is emerging and carbon markets have a future.” Multiple systems feature novel system designs like pricing stabilization mechanisms to make them flexible and adjustable to changing economic situations that may have been unforeseen when they were created. The current glut of allowances and low prices in the EU ETS has been attributed to system inflexibility to handle reduced allocation demand after the economic recession. EU ETS allowance price chart 2008-2013 via World Bank Carbon Pricing Covering 20% Total Global Emissions These emerging schemes could make a massive impact on global emissions. As of 2013, the countries with functioning systems or carbon pricing mechanisms scheduled to start within the next few years collectively emit 10 gigatons of CO2 per year – equal to about 20% of global emissions, or the combined annual emissions of the US and EU. The Bank report highlights cap and trade systems in the EU, California, Kazakhstan , New Zealand, Quebec, the Regional Greenhouse Gas Initiative , and regional markets in Japan, as well as South Korea’s developing system . In addition, carbon taxes are cited in Australia , British Columbia, Denmark, Finland, Ireland, Norway, South Africa , Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. Even more promising, the Bank’s report does not fully consider China’s fledgling system , which has begun pilot programs in major cities and will roll out nationally in 2020. “If China, Brazil, Chile, and the other emerging economies eyeing these mechanisms are included, carbon pricing initiatives could…cover almost half of total global emissions,” said Niklas Hohne of report co-author Ecofys. Severe Beijing air pollution image via Shutterstock Linkages And Expanded Targets Boost Value The Bank report also recognizes the value of international system linkages in stabilizing individual systems long-term. Linkages between the EU and Australia and California and Quebec , and potentially the EU and China , will create efficiencies and benefits for each system. However, the Bank cautions linkages need to be carefully timed to allow new systems to become established before connecting to other schemes. Bank analysts also note the growing trend of existing or scheduled systems expanding coverage of domestic emissions, with Australia and Korea now targeting 60% coverage, California eyeing 85% coverage , and New Zealand targeting 100% coverage within a few years. “There may not be a one-size-fits-all,” said Alexandre Kossoy , World Bank senior financial specialist. “But it is clear the foundation of the first generation of market-based instruments is informing what will constitute the future landscape of carbon pricing.” Does Hope Spring Eternal? Ultimately, it all comes down to climate, the ability to fund our transition to a sustainable future, and our inability to come to international agreement on climate policy. World Bank President Jim Yong Kim recently said climate change presents “serious consequences to the economic outlook” of international economies, and the Bank’s report acknowledges current emissions put us on the pathway to a devastating 3.5-4 degree Celsius temperature rise by 2100. If enough carbon pricing systems are online or planned by the next United Nations climate meetings, the power of international carbon markets as an economic and environmental stimulus may be too hard to ignore. Continue reading
World’s Carbon Markets: EDF, IETA Launch Online Resource On Emissions Trading Programs
By NAT KEOHANE | BIO | Published: JUNE 3, 2013 While Washington is stuck in gridlock, other jurisdictions around the world are moving forward on climate policy. Market-based approaches to cutting carbon are in place in jurisdictions accounting for nearly 10% of the world’s population. Above: areas shaded blue have emissions trading programs that are already operating; areas in green have programs that are launching or being considered. Market-based approaches to cutting carbon are already in place in jurisdictions accounting for nearly 10% of the world’s population and more than a third of its GDP. Many more jurisdictions are either moving ahead with market-based measures, or actively considering them. As interest grows around the world, policymakers are increasingly seeking information about the range of existing and proposed initiatives. In response, EDF has partnered with the International Emissions Trading Association (IETA) , a trade association that represents businesses involved in carbon trading and climate finance, to launch The World’s Carbon Markets: A case study guide to emissions trading . The online resource provides detailed information about key design elements and unique features of 18 emissions trading programs that are operating or launching around the world. EDF has also put together a quick reference chart that makes comparing the 18 programs even faster and easier. Growing interest in emissions trading Market-based policies are a proven way to limit carbon pollution and channel capital and innovation into clean energy, helping to avert the catastrophic consequences of climate change. While emissions trading programs around the world, like the ones we have looked at in detail, vary in their features, they all share the key insight that well-designed markets can be a powerful tool in achieving environmental and economic progress. The countries, states, provinces and cities highlighted in this report, which are moving ahead with strong action on climate change, constitute a vital and dynamic world of “bottom-up” actions that complement multilateral efforts such as the ongoing United Nations climate negotiations. Jurisdictions considering market-based approaches can use this new resource to learn from their growing number of peers already headed in that direction. We expect the site will also be of value for policy makers, academics, analysts, journalists, and colleagues in the NGO community and beyond. If you find the information in The World’s Carbon Markets case studies helpful, please share edf.org/worldscarbonmarkets with your networks. Continue reading
