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Fragrance Of The Week: Versace Pour Homme Oud Noir
By Nick Carvell 17 April 13 We don’t know if Donatella’s had a lot of business trips recently, but Versace ‘s head designer is taking the fashion house on a bit of a world tour when it comes to their scents. Having paid a scantily-clad visit to Greece with their last fragrance Eros , the brand has now landed in the Orient with the release of Oud Noir. In contrast to the bright turquoise used for Eros , the sharp-cornered smoked glass bottle is unusually understated, with only a small gold Medusa logo front and centre to keep the label heads happy. However, it reflects a whole new approach for the label – this is Versace manning up. Anchored by earthy notes of patchouli, leatherwood and, of course, rich oud wood, the scent is spiced up by saffron, cardamom and saffron. Add into the mix a splash of bitter orange, a dash of neroli and a twist of black pepper and you’re left with a scent that is smoky, warm and instantly masculine. £110 for 100ml. Available now. Exclusive to Harrods. harrods.com Continue reading
Agarwood Planting Popular in HK
2013-05-01 20:08:48 CRIENGLISH.com Web Editor: Wang Wei A boom in demand for incense has encouraged some farmers near Hong Kong to plant the trees in hopes that one day they may be rewarded with valuable agarwood. A bracelet made of valuable agarwood. [Photo: findart.com.cn] A boom in demand for incense has encouraged some farmers near Hong Kong to plant the trees in hopes that one day they may be rewarded with valuable agarwood. But it is an occupation only for the patient, as the trees take 13 years to produce wood suitable for incense. Incense is popular across much of Asia and is burned in private homes and temples. The unique aroma is created when a fungus infects aquilaria trees, resulting in a darkening of the wood, which is called agarwood. Joey Yuen is manager of Wing Lee Sandalwood, which makes incense in Hong Kong. “Agarwood is formed when the tree is hurt. For example, it is attacked by insects, lightning or it is infected with bacteria. The tree will produce some substance to heal the wound. Some oil will then appear in the wound, and that is the agarwood.” Agarwood is rare and expensive because only 10 percent of the naturally growing incense trees are attacked by the right kind of fungus, and it can take 20 years for the agarwood to develop. Joey Yuen says increasing demand for incense in East Asia has driven up the price of Agarwood to an all-time high. “As agarwood became popular, many people in Mainland China would come over to log the trees and sell them.” The stocks in this shop were harvested a number of decades ago, mostly in Vietnam, which is said to produce the best agarwood. Agarwood is measured using the traditional Chinese unit of weight, the catty. A high quality catty, that’s about 600 grams of incense sticks, may fetch thousands of dollars. A piece of wood with high agarwood content is heavier. The price of incense sticks made of agarwood range from 260 to 10,000 U.S. dollars per catty. Hong Kong has long been famous for producing incense. Villagers would plant fruit and aquilaria trees, from which agarwood is extracted, around their communities, and these became known as fung shui woodland. Professor Jim Chi Yung from the University of Hong Kong says that originally around 60 to 80 percent of fung shui woodland consisted of incense trees. “Only about 10 percent of the trees have this fungal invasion; hence, the development of high prices for agarwood. So when these so-called agarwood hunters went into the forest, they would indiscriminately chop down the trees.” Chan Koon Wing has been growing and harvesting incense trees along with his grandfather since childhood. Four years ago, Chan opened an incense tree farm, and has now planted around 10,000 incense trees. Collectors around the world are seeing this as an investment opportunity, some have even started their own incense trees farms. Although his trees cannot be harvested yet, Chan says prices will depend on the quality of the agarwood and normally range from six to 260 U.S. dollars per gram. He says the best type can cost as much as 1,000 U.S. dollars. But it is a slow process. “It’s like planting a normal tree. When it gets to eight years you have to hurt the tree to force it to produce oil. Then you have to wait another five years for the oil to become good quality, so it can be harvested.” Despite the growth in tree farms such as Chan’s, they are unlikely to satisfy the growing demand for agarwood. In 2007, the Vietnam Chemical Technology Institute published a study suggesting that the supply of agarwood oil could only satisfy 40 percent of demand. With natural supplies diminishing and farmed products requiring many years before they are ready to harvest demand will continue to outstrip supply. For CRI, I am Li Dong. Continue reading
A Slowdown In US Lending Or A Ramp Up In Shadow Banking?
April 30, 2013 12:26 PM We’ve received a number of emails pointing to what looks like a slowdown in lending by US-chartered banks. The amount of loans and leases on balance sheets of US banks has stopped growing. As in 2009 and 2011, some people are upset to see record levels of bank excess reserves that are not being turned into loans. These are deposits at the Fed earning 25bp and people are asking why banks are not lending more of this capital out. But what exactly caused the loan growth on banks’ balance sheets to stall? More precisely, what types of loan balances are no longer growing? It turns out that while commercial and industrial loans continue to grow – in fact accelerating – the growth in retail mortgage balances has stalled. And that’s the explanation for the flat-lining of the overall loan balances (the first chart above). Fixed maturity mortgages on US banks’ balance sheets (source: FRB; not seasonally adjusted) “Aha”, some economists would say. Banks are not extending as much credit in the mortgage space as they should, which is slowing down the economy. Those evil zombie banks… The real answer however has to do with the wonderful world of “shadow banking”. Why would banks want to keep all these mortgages on their books when they can blow them out to Freddie and Fannie, who in turn sell them to the market in the form of agency MBS (mortgage backed securities). And who are the buyers? The usual suspects of course – insurance firms, mutual funds, etc., and of course the biggest buyer of them all – the Fed. In fact the holdings of MBS on Fed’s balance sheet just hit a record. Mortgages are simply making their way from banks’ balance sheets onto the Fed’s balance sheet in the form of MBS. Source: FRB The data from Freddie and Fannie confirms this trend, with the first quarter of this year showing the largest MBS issuance volume in two years. As much as people don’t like to think about it this way, Freddie and Fannie are the biggest “shadow banks” around. The last time we had a spike in MBS issuance in early 2011, mortgage balances at banks declined, as banks did some “spring cleaning”. But what about loans that are not Freddie and Fannie eligible? Those should still be sitting on banks’ balance sheets, right? Not exactly. The private side of shadow banking is now kicking into gear, particularly in the so-called jumbo loans (mortgages too large to qualify for the GSEs). Inside Mortgage Finance: – The private-label market is “showing new signs of life,” according to Standard & Poor’s, which predicted that banks are likely to increase their securitization of jumbo mortgages. In a report released late last week, S&P projected $14 billion in non-agency jumbo MBS in 2013. Redwood alone set a goal of issuing $7 billion in non-agency MBS this year and is on pace to exceed that volume, helped by a pending $425 million deal, its sixth of the year. PennyMac Mortgage Investment Trust is also aiming to issue a non-agency jumbo MBS in the Redwood mold in the third quarter of 2013. The demand for fixed income product has manifested itself in the so-called “private-label” MBS, allowing banks to securitize mortgages that don’t qualify for Freddie and Fannie. Once again, it’s not about lending less – which is how some economists are reading the first chart above. It’s about originating product, collecting fees, and then selling into the hot securitization market – public or private. And taking those loans off the balance sheet creates room to do it all over again (the “recycling” of capital.) As one banker put it, “I want to be in the origination and fee business, not in long-term warehousing …” Continue reading




